Minnesota Boxer Rescue

Event – Santa Paws – November 10th, 2024

Minnesota Boxer Rescue — Wed, 02 Oct 2024 19:30:40 +0000

Santa is in Town:

Come say Hi and get your picture taken with Santa bring the whole family or just the furry ones.

There will be several Vendors to shop, music, food, raffles, fun, friends and of course COLD BEER!

EVENT LOCATION

56 Brewing
3055 Columbia Ave NE
Minneapolis, MN 55418

The post Event – Santa Paws – November 10th, 2024 first appeared on Minnesota Boxer Rescue.

Success Story – Why We Adopted a Senior

Minnesota Boxer Rescue — Thu, 11 Jan 2024 16:54:53 +0000

After losing two senior dogs, followed by two extremely quiet months without a four-legged friend, we chose to adopt a senior boxer through Minnesota Boxer Rescue. We chose a senior because we wanted to give them a second chance at life, and enjoy being part of our boxer-loving family. We couldn’t imagine how difficult it would be having to make a life change as a senior dog, and we had lots of love to give.

We adopted Layla last summer. She was an 8-year old brindle with a twinkle in her eyes and unbounding energy!! It was love at first sight for all of us! We brought her home to a house full of treats, toys, and a LOT of affection. We spoil her as much as we can, and love every minute of it. It has been fun introducing her to new things. She tilts her head back and forth listening to something new, and we all laugh at her antics. Just because she is 8 years old, don’t think she isn’t frisky!! She gets several walks a day, pup cups on the weekends, plays with neighborhood pups, and keeps busy following us around the house as she is a very curious girl.

We are so very happy that we adopted a senior, have given her a loving home, and she made our hearts full.

The Shoens

The post Success Story – Why We Adopted a Senior first appeared on Minnesota Boxer Rescue.

Success Story – Rex

Minnesota Boxer Rescue — Wed, 13 Dec 2023 21:07:25 +0000

My wife and I adopted Rex, a 1½ year old male boxer, that had been surrendered by several families due to being too hyper, child reactive, and dog reactive. Having owned six previous boxers, many of which were also Minnesota Boxer Rescue alums, I figured it could not be all that bad. Ohhhhh was I wrong. Rex was an absolute out-of-control maniac. His problem wasn’t that he was aggressive; it was the opposite. He LOVED everyone and everything way too much, to the point of inappropriately overwhelming every person and dog he met. He also had no idea how to appropriately interact with our 11-year-old female boxer who has knee problems and just wants to relax in her senior years.

After struggling with Rex for several months and being pushed to the brink of re-surrendering him, we reached back out to MNBR for help, committed to keeping Rex and working through our challenges with him. MNBR provided us with the support we needed and referred us to AQK9, a dog training facility that specializes in difficult dogs. I will be forever grateful for that referral from Minnesota Boxer Rescue, as it changed Rex and my life.

Rex and I started training with a 10-week private lesson program. I started those sessions feeling powerless and with little confidence we would be able to work through Rex’s problems. But, week by week, Rex learned to pay attention to me and rely on me for direction. At the same time, I learned to be a confident dog handler and how to work through uncomfortable situations with Rex by my side. Our journey was not a linear one. There were many weeks that felt overwhelming and as if we were reverting. But when we took a step back to view the big picture, we were making massive strides.

After our private lessons ended, we joined an obedience club at the same training facility, training on a weekly basis to continue our transformation. Entering a class with multiple new dogs was terrifying, considering prior to training Rex could not control himself if there was another dog within eyesight. But lo and behold, Rex kept his composure, and we were able to successfully train around multiple training teams.

Fast forward two years, and I am exceedingly happy to say that Rex has grown into the best dog I have ever owned and my true companion. Through obedience training and this journey, we have formed an incredible bond which I would not trade for anything. We continue to obedience train on a weekly basis, not because we have to, but because we want to. We have competed in multiple UKC obedience trials, placed, and titled! Never in my wildest dreams would I have thought that possible. Adopting a “difficult dog” and helping them grow into the best dog they can be is beyond rewarding. Thank you to Minnesota Boxer Rescue for placing Rex with us, my wife Shannon for her commitment to and love for Rex, and Tiffany and the whole crew at AQK9 for guiding us on this journey. Without all of you, this success story would not have been possible.

The post Success Story – Rex first appeared on Minnesota Boxer Rescue.

What’s with all these rules and questions?

Minnesota Boxer Rescue — Tue, 14 Nov 2023 18:42:54 +0000

After all – aren’t these homeless dogs? Wouldn’t any owner be better than being a dog, lamenting in rescue? Than being homeless??

Nope – as a matter of fact, those questions and in-depth applications have a purpose. The individuals who run these rescues have seen quite a bit of dog stuff in their day. They have seen the circumstances that brought these dogs into rescue in the first place.

There are a few “real” cases where a dog needs the help of a rescue because the owner has died or fallen gravely ill (please see the article “cancer leaves 2 dogs without an owner”), but the majority of dogs in rescues are there because they had owners who did things all wrong.

So, why does the application ask the names and ages of those in the household? Because they need to know if there are kids in the house that might be at risk if an inappropriate dog is placed in the home.

Why does the application ask you where the dog will be at night, or while you are away? Because many of the dogs in rescue are there because a prior owner had to get rid of them after neighbors complained about constant barking.

Why does the dog rescue care about training? Really, if it is your dog, shouldn’t training (or not training) be your decision? Nope. Many of the dogs in rescues are there because nobody took the time to train them.

The dogs become unruly, hard to own and guess what? Dumped at a shelter or in a rescue. The dogs become somebody else’s problem. Unfortunately, at that point, they are often out of control and require considerable work to even become adoptable.
Why should the rescue know about your prior dog-ownership? Is it really their business? Yep. If you had a couple of dogs that you got rid of after they peed in the house, or because you were having a baby, or god forbid – moving, the rescue needs to know.

You see, rescues would not function if dogs were not re-homed. There would be no need for organizations to exist if all owners kept their dogs, no matter what. If all owners altered their dogs and prevented unwanted litters of puppies. If all owners kept their dogs safely indoors, instead of out in a kennel or yard where they might bark, or even get out of a yard and possibly injure someone or something.

The questions on the application (and if you’re lucky enough to get that far, those asked of you in a phone interview) have been designed to weed out the bad owners. Is the system perfect? No. Nothing is perfect. However, the situations that the rescue organizations have encountered through the years has given them a pretty good idea of what to ask in order to find exceptional homes for the dogs.

Why are exceptional homes needed? So these dogs do not end up without an owner again. So the dogs don’t end up at a shelter where they might be euthanized. The rescues aren’t able to take in every dog that needs a place to go. Too many dogs are in danger at the shelters.

So the next time you are looking to adopt, be prepared to complete a lengthy adoption application and to spend some time chatting on the phone with a volunteer. Don’t be offended or annoyed – be thankful that those rescue-minded individuals care enough about the dogs in their care to ask the questions that need to be asked.
Rescue organizations find some phenomenal homes – amazing people are out there. That being said, so many of the dogs in rescue are amazing too. They are worth the time and effort and they deserve the exceptional home. They deserve a home that will keep them until the end of their days.

And a final note – a bad owner is not better than getting a dog “out” of rescue. Getting out of rescue, only to be left in a kennel for 10 hours a day or chained in a yard is not better than sitting in rescue. Those “sitting” dogs will eventually get adopted and the new owner will not be keeping them in a bad situation.

Please adopt. Please alter your pets. Please own responsibly.

P Eims, Examiner — March 17, 2010

The post What’s with all these rules and questions? first appeared on Minnesota Boxer Rescue.

Two Week Decompression Cheat Sheet

Minnesota Boxer Rescue — Mon, 13 Nov 2023 16:52:08 +0000

Basically, the two-week decompression is for the dog to learn about how to be a dog in a home, provide structure and rules, and give them the foundation to succeed in being a house dog. Every dog is different, so this process may take weeks to months.

Run that dog! Making sure they burn off extra energy is very important to help them relax. Playing in the yard (on a long line if not fenced or on it if they are at risk for escape). A tired dog means a less mischievous dog
If you do take them for a walk, pre-think the route. Being out and about is very stimulating and can be overwhelming to a dog in a new place, with a new person. Avoid as much stimulation as possible for the first 14 days. Get to know the neighborhood’s quirks before you walk the dog, so you can plan the route accordingly. Keep the walks short at first.
No socialization yet. No dog parks, pet stores, friend’s homes, etc. It’s too much stimulation and the dog needs to trust you wholly before you can both be comfortable in locations like these. This also means no car rides unless it’s to a vet. No meet and greets with potential adopters during the 2-week decompression!!
Limit freedom. Limit their freedom with a crate (I’d suggest a wire one for better visibility), or leashed to you umbilical-style. It helps them understand that you are the person to trust. You are the person who brings good things. It keeps them from having accidents, making mistakes, getting into trouble, as you can easily correct behavior if they are attached to you. Building that trust and setting boundaries all at the same time.
Restrict access to resident animals. This doesn’t mean they won’t be allowed to play eventually. Or see each other. Baby gates are great tools for this. Move dogs in a rotation, where the new dog and the resident dog(s) take turns in crates/gated areas. Slow intros with short bursts of playtime.
No furniture privileges at first. This is about setting boundaries. It fully depends on the dog, and you, and what privileges you intend to allow. But furniture access should be by invitation only at the best of times. And never too soon.
Do not give your new foster dog unstructured affection. Any and all affection from you must have a purpose. No kissy face or baby talk. I know it is hard, especially when they have likely never had love before but you will not be helping them or yourself if you do this
Safety first! Do not put your face in a new dogs face. That is just purely asking for a bite incident. Don’t hug your new dog, hugs to dogs are a threatening gesture.
Do not allow your new dog to “go ahead of you”. Establish this rule right away. You go out and in FIRST through the door. In fact, it is a good idea to have them sit before they can enter, before you leash up, etc. This is very important for dominant and alpha dogs.

The post Two Week Decompression Cheat Sheet first appeared on Minnesota Boxer Rescue.

Important tips for introducing your foster to your home, family, and other animals

Minnesota Boxer Rescue — Tue, 31 Oct 2023 18:54:32 +0000

All dogs are different. Dogs can love you but not respect you – there is a difference.

Dogs are pack animals. Adding a dog into a house with even one other dog creates a dog pack mentality. It is our job, as the human, to establish pack leadership. If this is not done from minute one, the dogs will attempt to step into this role. The dogs instinctively know their role in the pack and will look for the leader for structure and rules; basically they are looking for who is the “boss”. If they don’t feel they have this from a strong human leader, one of the dogs will step in line and attempt to become leader. When dogs figure this out in the wild, they fight. Our job as humans is to redirect this energy by immediately establishing leadership. Do not assume just because you have a loving and wonderful resident pet that issues will still not arise. The dogs need to be EQUAL and the human is the boss. That means nothing happens, begins, or ends until you say so. The new dog needs to have a relationship developed so it gains confidence. This comes from PLAY, OBEDIENCE TRAINING, and EXERCISE. This all may seem like hard work but it’s worth it when avoiding a fight that can traumatize you, your dog, and the foster.

Leadership happens by literally controlling every aspect of a dog’s life.

1) Pay attention!! Assume the worst. Expect the best. Pay attention to the rest.

2) Crate or separate a new addition. You have to assume that dogs coming into a new environment are stressed and scared, especially rescued animals. Crating or kenneling is not cruel, for most dogs it gives a sense of calm and ownership of space. Do not use the kennel as a punishment for “bad” behavior, but as a place for the dog to feel safe while learning about how the home functions and to learn with their senses (sight, smell, sound, and hearing) about the other members of the pack (home). It is a good idea to keep the new dog kenneled or separated for as long as a time that is needed, depending on the dog. Pay attention. Nervous or anxious dogs are not always easy to spot…quiet does not mean calm. Separate the new addition so he/she is still within range of the rest of the members – they should be able to be in the room without being IN the room. For dogs that are not obviously aggressive, this can be done with a baby gate. In order to create a fair environment, the dogs should be switched out regularly. This means that the resident dog(s) must be separated so that they can learn that they hold no rank either. Again, the rule is everything is neutral, only the human gets to do whatever they want. When the dogs are ignoring each other, you are making progress.

3) Leash. Whenever the new dog is out of the kennel, he/she should be leashed, ideally with a corrective collar or training lead. This way, you can correct any low head, stare, growl, or catch a rapid movement BEFORE anything happens. Keep your dog on a leash tethered to you when doing any activity in the beginning, including pottying, until you are absolutely positive you have established leadership and the dogs are calm and submissive. Correct anything that looks like „thinking about it‟ or „fear‟. Dogs respond when they are directed and given guidance on how to act, think, behave, do, and be.

4) Walks. A good way to continue introduction of dogs is through a walk. Have someone NOT part of the pack walk the resident dog. YOU walk the new dog. Take a route that is not familiar to your resident dog as he/she may be territorial. If there is a lot of anxiety between them, walk on opposite sides of the street. Keep the new dog next to you and do not let them lead. Expect the same of your resident dog. You can slowly start to come closer and closer to the other walker. If there is no reaction from the other dogs, you are in good shape. When both dogs are on leashes and the leash holders have control, you can try to let them do what dogs do: butt sniff, walk around one another, mark, etc. Pay attention! Any negative change in energy should be corrected!

5) A scuffle is not a fight. Dogs will be dogs. There will, if there is an unbalance of energy, be a “discussion” about this. Scuffles, loud noises, quick corrections, small squeals between dogs are not fights. Even these events can be scary. Hang in there and re-establish leadership immediately. Kennel and separate the dogs for a brief time but get them together, leashed, as soon as the moment and tension is over. Dogs do not hold any memories of a grudge.

6) Toys/bones. A good suggestion for the beginning of new dog introduction is to make all areas neutral and to remove all „high priority‟ items, such as toys and bones. These items can make a well functioning pack react in a negative way. Behaviorists call this “resource guarding” and this can happen over beds, bones, toys, and even you! Again, keep everything neutral and equal. If you are going to introduce a toy or bone, make it equal and watch. Even the best behaved dog can have a negative response when his/her toy or bone is challenged.

7) Don’t be afraid to be ‘alpha’. You are not being „mean‟. You are establishing pack leadership. Rescuing neglected and abused dogs and rehabilitating them is a wonderful and rewarding experience. Our instinct is to smother them with love and baby them. Of course, love and affection is necessary, however this is not the only thing that needs to exist. Dogs appreciate a strong leader. They need you to establish the alpha position so they don’t have to and they can spend their energy and time getting healthy, gaining weight, learning how to socialize, and play! Let them be a happy dog!! You can do this by taking the place as alpha in your home and in the pack. Reminder: ALL HUMANS need to have alpha leadership, this includes children!!

8) Food. Food is a resource. This means that some dogs will have issues with it. Maybe they had to fight for their share, or maybe they never had enough. When feeding dogs, make them sit and wait for their food. If they go to it without your permission, practice the “leave it” command and make them wait until you say “okay” or “go” and then ALLOW them to eat. Feed dogs at the same time and for new dogs, stay in the room and supervise. Food, like toys and other resources, can be a trigger for aggression.

9) AVOID FIGHTS. Quiet does not mean calm. Tail wiggles are a good sign; still tails and stiff bodies are an indication of tension. So are lowered heads or bared teeth. If you see a shift in energy that may result in a fight, distract and redirect them! Call them over. Give a loud “hey!!” Make a correction on the leash or lead. Tell them to “wiggle‟ and raise your voice pitch. They may end up kissing! Remove the resource they are guarding. Change locations.

When your dog gets into a dog fight

Keep control! It usually sounds worse than it is!!
Do NOT put your hands near the source of the fight (mouths)
Make a loud noise to get their attention. Yell “Hey” or bang pots or cookie sheets
Throw a pot of cold water on them
Throw a blanket over them
If you have to grab something, grab legs and don’t pull…pulling can cause more damage.

The dogs do not want to fight; they are fighting because they are scared, sick, feel weak or vulnerable, or challenging pack leadership. Do not put yourself or your home at risk when dealing with a severe dog fight. Dogs are extremely resilient and will bounce back quickly.

If you have any other questions or issues, please contact your foster coordinator.

MNBR has many resources and experienced dog owners that can assist you and provide support and guidance.

If you are interested in being considered to foster for MNBR, please fill out our

THANK YOU FOR FOSTERING FOR MINNESOTA BOXER RESCUE!!

The post Important tips for introducing your foster to your home, family, and other animals first appeared on Minnesota Boxer Rescue.